2

For example:

  • Is there any difference, playing wise, between a centre jointed cue and a 3/4 jointed cue? I would have thought that the only difference would be that a centre jointed cue is more portable because it wouldn't require as large a case, but many players seem to have 3/4 jointed cues, and there must be a reason for this
  • Does wood type make a difference? Assuming they're the same weight, why would a maple cue be any better or worse than an ash cue, for example?
  • What are the advantages and disadvantages of having a heavier or lighter cue?
  • Is there any reason to go for a hand spliced cue over a machine spliced one?
  • Overall, what are you paying for when you buy a £250 cue as opposed to a £100 cue?
1

There's no real difference between centre-joint and 3/4 joint. If they are well made then there's no issue of balance. As you say, the only benefit is portability. Many people have 3/4 cues but never detach it, even for travelling.

Maple vs. ash - As I understand, the only difference is the visible grain. Ash cues have a visible grain which, if well made, should form chevrons down the shaft as viewed from your shot stance.

In all things, personal preference is the main factor. The only advice I would give is to try the cue before you buy it, and decent manufacturers will have a table to allow you to do this. The reason to have your own cue in the first place is to build consistency; to reduce as many variables in your game as you can. So, find a cue that feels right for you and stick with it.

Stephen Hendry won many of his world championships playing with a £30 club cue, so in most cases it's down to the user, not the tool!

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy